Monrovia, Liberia

July 2013

The Liberian airport (Monrovia) is tiny and crowded.  I can only say thank god that there is a diplomatic line, because there are only a few booths, and everyone from the large plane crams into tiny space to get through the lines.  I don’t know how long it takes to wait for luggage, because I had only carry on, but the baggage claim area was very cramped and crowded, so I can only imagine how bad it would be.  Arrival hall is the usual crush, and parking access is a mess – especially when it rains or has rained, because there are puddles everywhere.  Again, I was glad to be met, and had to walk a ways to the car, but it was okay overall. 

On the way out, there is a separate terminal for Delta and Air France departures, which you would think is good – but the entry area is sooooo tiny, I don’t see how they can handle more than (at most) 20 people at one time.  I am told that they are strict about the two hour check in rule, but I am in the lounge now and there don’t seem to be any people checked in at this point – and it’s exactly two hours before departure.  Oh well – the government was very nice to provide me with a car for the afternoon, and an escort and expeditor through check in process.  I have not been through security yet, but there is only one line – one!!  There are two little booths for the immigration check – wow, I can only imagine how terrible that could be. 

On the plus side, there is a business lounge, and it’s decent size.  The internet does not work.  The beer is nice and cold though!  The protocol officer is waiting with me until boarding.  I wish she wouldn’t because I want to ask for another beer, but I feel awkward to do it.  Still, I may just do it anyway. (and I did!)

So – backing up to arrival …… it took about 45 minutes to get to the hotel in Monrovia.  In my opinion, the only reason the airport is this far out is because it’s right next to the Firestone plantation. 

The conference was held at the Grand Royal (Royal Grand), and the food for the conference was frankly terrible.  I had some fish that was okay, but the lunch – awful!! And the service of the drinks and everything was not good.  They need work on the banquet service for sure.  The conference room was tiny.  I guess that’s what they wanted, but honestly it was too small much of the time. 

My initial view of Liberia is that it needs so much.  And there are too few people who are prepared and capable to provide it.  I didn’t see it at this conference, but I hear that the government is somewhat dysfunctional, that the ministries don’t work together.  Clearly plenty of self-interest, and an overall lack of interest in long term support for the population.  I wonder whether it’s telling that the UN is still here and so actively involved.  Yes, the investment opportunities are huge.  But I wonder…. With such a powerful president, what’s taking so long?

Everyone I met seemed to be genuinely hospitable.  I don’t have that feeling of being played all the time like I do in Nigeria.  People seem to feel more identification with US but not sure what that means for business overall.  It’s not appropriate to rush to conclusions after a two day conference!.

I have the same attraction that I do for say, Iraq – where they are hard cases that I think I can help, or make some difference.  But I am a different person than I was ten years ago.  I am now officially “Jaded”.  So, can I think about this realistically as well as optimistically?  Don’t places like this need someone with vision and belief – faith – to make things happen? 

Everyone needs to have skin in the game.  There need to be local people who are invested in the success of the project as well as the foreign investor.  But, you don’t want to be beholden to the government  - I feel that governments are inherently untrustworthy.  But here, and now, there is a window.  A president who has the right point of view.  That said, she hasn’t really been able to do as much as she wants.    Liberia needs investors with vision and capital, and an ability to stick with long term.  We say that over and over, but honestly I don’t who there is in the U.S. who thinks that way anymore.   

Delta flight from Liberia to Accra to JFK.  The only thing that saved me on this flight was the sleeping pills.  The equipment was ancient.  The headphones screeched at me if I didn’t hold them just right in the socket.  The screen was one of those tiny floppy things that you can barely see, and the touch screen was virtually unresponsive.  The movie selection was extremely limited.

The seat didn’t lie remotely flat.  The service was efficient but aside from the one guy that served drinks early and then went to sleep, very …..distant, shall we say?  The crew from Liberia to Accra was nice – wish we could have kept them.  I had remembered Delta food being better than average, but this time is was strictly basic, typical airplane food.  The only good thing to point to is the pillow and the comforter, which were very nice.  Man, American airlines are just crappy all around.  I don’t think they will be able to compete.  I sure wish we could fly others, but on the other hand I wouldn’t be getting the FF miles that I have, and those are hugely valuable. 

I actually looked out the window for a few seconds this time. The stars were gorgeous, filled the sky.  Being near the wing wasn’t good – the flashing light kept messing with my night vision.  But at least I did look out before I went to sleep.  Don’t want to become totally jaded.